Why do some guitars seem to just play themselves while others make you work at it? In many cases it's simply a matter of "setup" -- getting the neck, the string height and the string length just right for your individual playing style. Here's a step-by-step procedure for easy, do-it-yourself guitar setup:
Tools needed:
1. Nut driver, 1/4" or 5/16". You'll probably
need one specially made for guitar
truss rods. Purchasing
info on truss rod wrenches at the end of this article.
2. Metal ruler or straight edge, 20-25"
long
3. Small ruler with 1/16" increments
Steps
1.Put on new strings.
String action (height), fret buzz and intonation will vary
with different string
gauges and from old to new strings. You want to do your
setup under actual
playing conditions, so string your guitar with the gauge of
strings that you're
going to play. If you're replacing strings on a new Gibson,
most solidbody electrics
(Les Pauls, ES-335s, Nighthawks, Flying V's, SG's)
come from the factory
with light gauge strings, beginning with .009. The Chet
Atkins SSTs and hollowbody
electrics (ES-175) come with .010s. Most flat
tops are strung at
the factory with medium gauge, beginning with .013.
2.Tune up to standard pitch
. Again, your guitar needs to be in playing condition,
so tune up to
standard pitch (or whatever tuning you'll be using).
3.Check the straightness
of the neck. Use a straight edge to determine if a truss
rod adjustment is
needed. If the neck is bowed, there will be a space under the
middle of the straight
edge where the neck does not touch the straight edge. If
the neck is "backbowed,"
the frets will touch in the middle of the straight edge.
(Bows are 'sags' in
a fretboard... Backbows are 'humps' in a fretboard.)
NOTE: A slightly
bowed neck is ideal for most playing styles. A perfectly
straight
neck generally requires higher string action than a slightly bowed neck
in
order
to minimize string buzz at the higher frets. Repairmen describe this as
giving
the neck some "relief" to allow for string vibration. The amount of relief
necessary
varies with playing styles, however. A perfectly straight neck may be
fine
for a very light picking style. If your neck has only a slight bow, you
may
not
want to make any adjustments to the truss rod.
I like to start with
a perfectly straight neck. If I can't get the neck straight, then
that indicates other
possible problems, such as high frets (frets being pushed out
of their slots), low
or worn frets, or variations in the fretboard itself, Many older
guitars have a "bump"
in the fingerboard over the neck block, for example. All
of these problems
are fixable, but require an advanced level of repair
experience. An elevated
fret can often be corrected by a gentle tap seating it.
4.Adjust the truss rod (if
necessary). First loosen the G and D string so as to
access the truss
rod cover. Then remove the truss rod cover. If the neck has
too much of
a bow, then the truss rod should be tightened with a clockwise
turn of the
nut. For a clockwise turn, the arm of the nut driver should
start on the treble
side of the fingerboard and move toward the bass side. Don't
turn the nut more
than a quarter of a turn at a time and do not apply excess force
if it "refuses" to
turn lest you twist off the rod. For a backbowed neck, the
truss rod should be
loosened with a counterclockwise turn of the nut. When the
neck is as straight
as you can get it, then back off about a quarter of a turn for
"relief" and to allow
for the tension the G and D strings will apply when tuned.
5.Check string height.
Tune to standard pitch. With the small ruler on top of the
fret, measure
the distance to the bottom of the string. (You can also use a feeler
guage for these measurements.)
The string height
at the 1st fret will determine if the nut slots have been cut to the
proper depth.
If the nut slots need to be deepened or filled in, that's a job for a
pro with the proper
tools.
The string height
at the 12th fret will determine whether the saddle should be
raised or lowered.
Gibson electric specifications
are:
1st fret- treble side - 1/64"
1st fret- bass side - 2/64"
12th fret- treble side - 3/64"
12th fret - bass side - 5/64"
Gibson acoustic specifications
are:
1st fret- treble side- 1/64"
1st fret- bass side- 2/64"
12th fret - treble side- 5/64"
12th fret- bass side- 7/64"
6.Adjust saddle height.
On an electric guitar with a tune-o-matic bridge, or on
an archtop guitar
with a height-adjustable bridge, the thumbwheels will raise or
lower the bridge.
You may have to loosen the strings a bit to get the bridge to
raise easily. On an
acoustic, the bottom edge of the saddle will have to be
shaved or sanded off
to lower the action, or shimmed or replaced to raise the
action. You'll have
to loosen the strings to remove the saddle, then file it down
on a flat file --
just a little at a time -- and then replace the saddle and tune up
again. Don't try to
file the top of the saddle, since it's rounded to match the
radius of the fingerboard.
And make sure the bottom remains flat or the bridge
will want to rock
in its slot and not make good contact with the top of the guitar.
If you are unable to
bring the strings to a comfortable height for playing, you
may need a neck set.
Another option is to remove the bridge and either shave it
down or replace it
with a higher one. The optimum height for a wood bridge on
a flat top guitar
(just the bridge, not including the saddle) is 3/8", so if you're
going to have to go
much above or below that, the neck set is the better
solution. Either way,
it's a job for a pro.
7.To lower the nut slots,
special nut files are required that are available from guitar
shop supply sources.
Stewart-McDonald carries them. Set nut slot depths
to specs listed above
for first fret.
8.Check for fret buzz.
Using a medium pick or light finger touch, check all fretted
notes for string buzz.
If correct, move up the next step. If not, some fret leveling
may be required. This
is another procedure for a pro with the right tools.
9.Check intonation.
At the 12th fret, play a "chime tone" by touching the string
without pressing it
to the fret. Release your finger from the string as you pluck it.
You should hear the
octave overtone. Now press the string to the 12th fret and
play. If the tones
match, then the intonation is correct. Notice that the 12th fret
tone may vary according
to how hard you press the string down. Electronic tuners
are excellent tools
to determine if intonation is correct at open string and then
the12th fret..
10.Adjust intonation. On
an electric guitar with a tune-o-matic bridge, the length
of each individual
string is adjustable. If the 12th fret tone is higher than the
string's natural octave
overtone, then lengthen the string by moving the saddle
toward the tailpiece
of the guitar. If the 12th fret tone is lower than the octave
overtone, then move
the saddle toward the neck.
On an electric
guitar with a wraparound tailpiece, the tailpiece can be adjusted
only at the treble end and bass end. It is usually not possible to achieve
perfect
intonation for every string with a wraparound tailpiece. If an individual
string is
out of tune, you may be able to compensate by replacing that string with
a
higher or lower gauge string.
On an acoustic archtop
guitar, you can only adjust string length by moving the
entire
bridge. Loosen the strings so that bridge will move freely without
scratching
the top of the guitar.
On an
acoustic guitar, the bridge can't be moved but it can be "intonated" so
that
the point where a string crosses the bridge is either forward or after
the
center
of the saddle. In some cases, a thicker saddle is necessary to accomplish
this.
Intonating the saddle should be done by a professional and it can correct
only
minor intonation problems. Major intonation problems on acoustic guitars
-- especially
older models -- may be the result of an improperly placed saddle.
In these
cases, perfect intonation can only be achieved by re-routing the saddle
slot
or installing a new bridge and saddle.
11.Advice. If you want
to attempt some of the more advanced setup and repair
procedures, such as
fret leveling, neck set or saddle replacement, first arm
yourself with the
proper instructions and proper tools, then try your hand on a
junker guitar before
you attack your favorite instrument.
For further reference: Parts, tools and repair books:
Visit Stewart McDonald's
website at www.stewmac.com to order a catalog and
browse through repair columns
by Dan Erlewine.
Books and videos on guitar setup and repair:
Stewart McDonald,
www.stewmac.com
Elderly Instruments,
www.elderly.com
JK Lutherie: www.jklutherie.com
Truss rod nut driver/wrench: Many Gibsons came with
a wrench-type nut drive, with
a small arm mounted at a 90-degree angle from the
truss rod. The wrench-type are
fine for the occassional user. The pros use
a nut driver with a 6-inch shaft that ends
in a T-bar. You can order either style from Stewart
McDonald at 800 848 2273:
Wrench type 1/4" (for
Gibson electrics and some acoustics), part #944, $4.98
Wrench type 5/16"
(for recent Gibson acoustics), part #946, $4.98
T-bar nut driver,
1/4-inch, part #941, $13.45
1. Packing and Shipping
Tips
2. How to Adjust Necks
and set Intonation for proper playing action.
3. How to Set UP electric
Guitars.
4. Taking Care of Guitar
Finish
5. Fretboard care and
Treatment (Fret Polishing, etc.)
6. Return to Main Page
of The Old Closet!